Reactive Dogs
In the forms and eval pro appointments, we ask the right questions to find out if dogs have either bitten another dog or human. We do not work with those dogs. Every now and then however, we get some dogs that are considered to be “reactive.”
The Definition of a “Reactive Dog”: A dog that barks at other dogs or humans — typically when on a leash or behind a barrier (fence, window, etc.)
Leash/Barrier Reactivity
Dogs that react towards other dogs either don’t like dogs, are scared/uncomfortable in the situation, OR they are actually friendly and want to play but come off as aggressive when on leash or behind barriers.
Think of leash reactivity and barrier reactivity like people who talk crap online. We all know people are much more mean and rude on Facebook and Twitter in comments sections than they are online. Normally the same people who are rude in the comments or posts aren’t that way in person. Dogs on leashes and behind barriers are the same way. They are all talk behind a barrier or on a leash, but when they are nose to nose with a dog off leash, normally they are fine.
Fearful/Anxious Reactivity
Dogs who react towards humans are usually just fearful or very low confidence. Many times fear and low confidence around other humans comes from some type of past abuse, bad socialization as a puppy OR stress of the mother dog during the pregnancy or nursing period. When they bark, they are trying to seem big and bad so the other dogs/humans stay away. But really they are just scared. It is best for these pups to just expose them to their fear and make them confront what they are scared or anxious about. After doing that, and with time, they are normally fine!
Note: It is best for the trainer NOT to use pet corrector spray with a dog that is reactive/anxious/scared towards humans. You can give spray to the client and have them use spray it paired with a corrective command like NO, QUIET or HUSH. We want to avoid the dog getting overly spooked and thinking its coming from you and set back your relationship with the dog.
Catching Reactivity Before It Starts
The final result of a dog being reactive is barking, lunging, pulling, standing up on their back legs, etc. But before this happens, there are normally some signs and things we can do to address the reactivity and catch it before it gets that bad.
Let’s say that you’re working with a reactive dog (dog or human reactive) and you’re working on heel or loose leash out in the neighborhood. You see a dog or human way down the street. If you’re far enough away, the dog is likely not barking, lunging,. etc.
Below is the normal order of operations for a reactive dog:
The head posture standing up ad the dog having a much more alert position with their head
Their ears will start standing erect or in an up position
Their hackles may stand up
Their tail may stand up in the “tail flagging” position
They will start to breathe heavier or huff
Then they will growl
Then they will bark
Then they will lunge
You can correct the dog BEFORE the dog goes to level 100. When the dogs head and ears stand up once they see a human or dog, you can give a tug or tap and say “no” or “leave it”. You can repeat this for the other behaviors you see before the dog starts barking, growling, lunging, etc.
So if you’re walking down the road and you see the dog alert and hackles raise, tap/tug and give “no” command. Repeat until the dog settles down. Then when you hear the dog start huffing and breathing heavier, apply a correction. Do the same thing when the dog starts to growl. Do this until the dog stops. If the dog is being stubborn, turn your corrections up. Reward when the dog is quiet and doing better.
This is NOT a quick fix for most dogs. Most dogs used to going 0-100 don’t just stop. As you work through the steps, the dog will do less and less over time and eventually be able to see/pass dogs and people and be just fine. It’s a matter of correcting the behavior before it gets bad.
What NOT to do (generally speaking): Do not make the dog sit off to the side as the dog passes by if the dog is reactive. Lots of people do this and the problem with this is that the dog will sit until the dog or person is close by and then go crazy. They are anticipating and building up energy and then it all goes out at once. It is best to keep the dog moving and correct along the way.
Exercise Ideas If You Bring a Dog to Help
Exercise 1. Start with your dog laying in a corner of the yard. Take the client and start at a far but comfortable distance and just walk their dog past your dog. Progressively get closer and closer. Once the dog is doing good walking past your dog, pass the client dog back off to the client and have them do the same thing. Start with them far away and work their way closer.
Exercise 2. Have your dog walking with you and start on opposite sides of the street and walk up and down the sidewalk or street while the client does the same with their dog. As the dog is doing better, start walking closer and closer. Do this until you are walking fairly close to the dog.
Exercise 3. Do a few meet and greets like we do at the games. Start at a more than safe distance with the client having their dog in a sit and stay. You move up closer and closer until you are 3-4 feet away.
Exercise 4. Leave the client and walk down the street. Have the client walk towards you and you walk towards the client with your dog. As you get closer move out of the way a bit and walk past them. This is a new environment and has potential to get the dog to act up. If the dog is good here, that is great. Try jogging by next time.
Exercise 5. If the clients neighborhood has coves and turns in it, walk around the corner. Have the client wait until you are out of sight and then walk around the corner. The idea here is to surprise the dog. As the client walks around the corner, you walk past the client and their dog at a quick pace.
Helpful Tips. If you want to be extra, grab a ball and bounce it, jog by with your dog, if your dog knows the bark command get your dog to bark as a way to try to expose the other dog to dogs acting up.
Suggestions For Human Reactive Dogs
If the dog is used to you and knows what you look like you may consider using a jacket that has a hood and try putting a hood up. This sometimes helps if the dog is used to seeing you over and over throughout the exercises.
If you want to be extra, grab a ball and bounce it, jog by the client and their dog, etc.
After the first 20-30 mins of practice, give the dog a longer break of 5-10 mins and go down the street or around the corner with your dog then text the client when you are in the place and have them come out. The idea of this it have the dog forget you are here and the dog you have with you.
Advice For Fearful Dogs
1) Wait on the dog to come up to you before showing the dog any attention
1A) Don’t solicit attention from the dog, make the dog curious about you
1B) Keep your posture away from the dog. If the dog is in front of you, turn to the side or have your back facing them. This makes you more approachable.
2) When you first pet the dog, do quick pets, not long pets
3) Do no make long eye contact
4) Pet under the chin, not over the head
Notes: If you’re doing a lesson and the dog won’t stop barking or just won’t show you any attention, at some point you have to make the dog interact with you so that you can get on with the training. So, get the owner to put a leash on the dog and start by walking the dog around the house. During this time, try feeding the dog snack. Sit on the couch and reel the dog into you and make the dog get closer and then gently pet using the steps above. Try giving the dog snacks to make him more comfortable with you, etc.
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